A Travellerspoint blog

The Crazy House Tour

Bet you thought the psychedelic era was over......

Woke up to the church bells. Have not figured them out. They’re coming from at least 2 different places. The first ones are usually about 6:30 a.m. I’m told that there’s 32 clangs. I haven’t counted. The next ones are around 6:45 am. and supposedly 12 rings. The next set is around 7 a.m. and this time 30 however since there are reportedly 128 churches in the area each with bells, I’m not sure that my informant was listening to the same bells. Tomorrow if I remember I’ll count. This a.m. along with the bells there was fireworks apparently to ward evil spirits. The bells continue throughout the day ringing a random number of times as far as I can figure. Oh, there they go now at 4:44 p.m.

Today was the House and Garden tour put on to support the library. We wanted to try to get the tickets that we didn’t get yesterday so we headed down early when the library tienda opened at 10 a.m. We stayed on the sunny side of the street where it was slightly warmer. The sidewalks are just wide enough for about 1 ½ people and since most stay on the sunny side in the morning and the shady side in the afternoon there’s a lot of friendly jostling going on. And then there’s telephone poles which means you squeeze between the wall and the pole or go out on the street. The cobblestones are cold in the morning so before we get anywhere our feet are cold but then we’re walking fast cause we’re cold too.
About 100 very friendly gringos, mostly American with a good number of Canadians were on the tour. Both homes we visited were owned by artists.

We all piled on small buses, about 20 people to a bus. Our guide David was another eccentric expat who has lived in SM for a while. He was a former lawyer from the San Francisco who was also a musician and had played with the Grateful Dead and other Bay area bands back in the day. He was a former friend of counter culture author Ken Kesey who like Jerry Garcia and others from that era had spent time in SM. Well known Beat/Psychedelic generation person Neal Cassady, who figured in many of Jack Kerouac's novels, died in SM back in the late 60s when the town was part of the expanding your mind/LSD tour.

The first house we went to was hmmm…eclectic? See photos. Arthur Black’s show ‘Weird Homes’ came to mind. The second house was owned by a ‘visionary artist’ Anado McLauchlin and described as the happiest house in SM and something attuned to an acid trip. Dusting would not be an option. Words can not describe the cacophony of colour and images. We both felt we didn’t quite get the art and were afraid to ask. See photos.

Back on the bus we headed to the market and then to the square to see what was happening on Sunday afternoon. Lots of families and young people eating ice cream and wandering about. Deep-fried cinnamon sticks were too tempting to resist and gone in no time.


Posted by backtomexico 17:07 Archived in Mexico

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